Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
