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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.